Can Fashion Criticism Keep Up With Fashion Weeks'Fast Pace? Part.1

🌈 Abstract

The article discusses the approach of the Italian independent magazine Rivista Studio to fashion criticism, particularly in the context of the recent Gucci show and the changing landscape of the fashion industry.

🙋 Q&A

[01] Rivista Studio's Approach to Fashion

1. How does Rivista Studio tackle topics in their magazine?

• Rivista Studio approaches topics from a wide perspective, covering not just fashion but also literature, cinema, and TV shows.
• They aim to provide readers with a deeper understanding of cultural aspects of topics that traditional media might cover less.
• For example, their last issue was about the topic of wealth, examining why there has been a resurgence of interest in the rich and the ideal of conservatism associated with it.

2. How does Rivista Studio approach fashion?

• Fashion is a significant part of Rivista Studio, with the fashion director, creative director, and managing director working collaboratively on the direction.
• They believe the traditional role of the fashion editor-in-chief and fashion critic is becoming obsolete, as fashion has become more open and diverse, with creativity emerging from various global centers beyond the traditional fashion capitals.
• Rivista Studio aims to provide a fresh perspective on fashion that goes beyond the Eurocentric and Occidental views often found in mainstream fashion media.

[02] Changes in the Fashion Industry and Fashion Criticism

1. How has the fashion industry changed in the last five years, and how has it impacted fashion criticism?

• The fashion industry has become more diverse, with creativity emerging from markets like Africa and Asia that have historically been overlooked by the mainstream media.
• This has led to a discrepancy between the Italian fashion media, which tends to be more protective of young Italian talents, and the American and British fashion media, which have been more critical.
• The economic uncertainty and the rise of "quiet luxury" brands have also impacted fashion criticism, as brands that focus on timeless products and discreet communication have been more successful than those relying on aesthetics, fashion shows, and celebrity endorsements.
• Fashion critics now need to have a broader understanding of the industry, including economics, finance, and global trends, to provide meaningful analysis of collections and brands.

2. What are your thoughts on the role of fashion critics in the current landscape?

• Harsh criticism of individual collections is less useful, as fashion brands, especially those part of large conglomerates, need time to navigate the uncertain economic environment and cultivate their aesthetic and vision.
• Fashion critics who can provide in-depth, nuanced reflections on the relationship between fashion, art, and culture, such as Dean Kissick, are more valuable, as their analysis takes time to absorb and can be found in publications with a longer publication cycle.